Planting Some Natives

Cupplant -- Silphium perfoliatum

While we are working on a list of possible plants for the area that we have chosen for the Less Lawn More Life challenge and a plan for planting them, we finally had a nice day today and chose to work somewhere else. Renee has some plugs with cupplant seedlings that are getting root bound and they will be too tall when they mature for the area we are planning. So, we switched gears and chose another location in what we are calling the knotweed expanse that extends all along the south boundary of our property. 

We chose an area that is a little over ten feet by ten feet and just beyond a barely established trail that weaves along the property boundary to plant three cupplants, Silphium perfolatum. First we dug up any of the knotweed shoots that had appeared here. We also found several live rhizomes and removed them. They and the shoots are now spread along the edge of our asphalt driveway to bake in the sun for a couple of months.  Then we planted the three plugs approximately two to three feet apart. In the photo, the small plugs are hard to see; clicking on the photo will enlarge it. One is to the right, appearing below the watering can. One is to the left, below the watering can. The third is farther to the left, along with a goldenrod that has popped up on its own. 

Cupplant, Silphium perfoliatum, is a tall and aggressive plant that likes moisture, making it a good choice for the back of beds like this one here in the knotweed expanse. While it may not bloom or reach its full height for the first year or two, upon maturity it will bloom with yellow flowers from mid-summer attracting pollinators of all kinds. Cupplants get their name from the way their leaves project directly from the square stem forming a cup that holds water after rain. It has a reputation for, in addition to being a pollinator magnet, supporting birds by providing food, water, and shelter. Goldfinches are known to relish the seeds of the cupplant. While it is found naturally in counties south and north of us in eastern Pennsylvania, it is not native to our local ecoregion. That said, with its aggressive nature, we are hoping it will outcompete the return of the knotweed, and we appreciate the support it will provide to pollinators and birds. 

Guidelines and More First Steps

In our last post I mentioned that we had joined the Less Lawn More Life challenge and had chosen a site.  This photo shows a portion of former knotweed expanse that will be our location for this challenge. 

As part of the Week 3 Challenge, Wild Ones shared this webinar: Native Plants Planted Right. I took some notes broken into three parts, similar to Loris Damerow's presentation itself, on  planning, prepping, and planting, and I will outline them below. 

Today, I viewed a pair of videos featuring Doug Tallamy on a YouTube channel that focused on planning and planting native plants in the home garden. This one was filmed at the Mt. Cuba Center. This one was filmed at the University of Delaware Botanic Garden. Each of them gave an overview of his rationale for individuals becoming conservationists in their home landscape as well as some detailed information on how to do so.  

With these guidelines, I feel a bit better prepared to tackle the Week 3 Challenge (Plant Some Natives) in an informed manner rather than just planting some natives willy nilly. My next post should be the plan and maybe some progress reports. 

Plan:

• Draw or sketch a plan to scale
• Consider the needs of plants: soil, light, moisture levels
• Plan for layers and drifts (odd numbers, three or five)
• Include a variety of bloom times
• Incorporate keystone and host plants

Prep:

• Lasagna method: Cardboard and chips/mulch (easy but slow)
• Dig up sod (fast but harder)
• Specific to us: knotweed shoot and rhizome removal 

Plant: 

• Don't overwork the soil
• Consider the plant's size when grown for placement
• Dig wide, but shallow hole
• Water deeply: first year once or twice a week
• Mulch lightly 2" or 3" inches away from stem
• Label each plant: physical label, sketch, and/or spreadsheet 

Post Planting:

• Weed early and often
• Observe over time: notes or journal
• Is every plant labeled?
• Remember "sleep, creep, leap" for the first three years

Knotweed and Less Lawn Updates

 

The knotweed, whether it is Japanese knotweed, Fallopia Japanica, or the hybrid discussed in Joan Jubela's article mentioned earlier, is unrelenting. Elimination has not and will not be achieved this year (ever?). We have to be satisfied with some combination of controlling, managing, or reducing the spread of the zombie-like plant for now.  I did come across a helpful video for controlling invasive knotweed. Yes, it is from a commercial company, but it pulls together ideas that are supported by other recognized and legitimate sources. This video supports the steps we are taking, but we still need to try to not be demoralized by the numbers of shoots emerging from what had appeared as a knotweed cemetery earlier this spring. 

The knotweed appears most unfazed by the past two year's treatment trying to eliminate it in the wet areas over the property line and on the borders of the "expanse" on our property. As we are not prepared to use herbicides ourselves, we may need to contact the service we used in 2023 and 2024. 

We are making some headway on the area that I refer to as the "knotweed expanse" most of which is seen in the background of the photo of the river birch, Betula nigra, taken after it had started to leaf out below. 

While not that attractive, we are fencing or caging the woody plants as we go to protect them from browsing by the deer or other critters while the plants are still young and susceptible. While investigating about a week or so ago, we found an oak seedling that was growing along the property line between the river birch and the springhouse overflow bog. I crafted a cloche to protect it from the browsers, the edge of which can be seen in this photo:

We also planted and caged the witch hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, that we had purchased at Edge of the Woods. We planted it just to the east and fairly close to the birch tree. As they mature, we hope their roots will intertwine and cooperate rather than compete for water while these two plants provide layers between canopy and understory. The witch hazel is native and pollinator friendly, flowering in the fall. 

Before the storms at the end of last week, we also planted the last two purchases from Edge of the Woods, the Virginia bluebells, Mertensia virginica. Renee took the lead with these, planting them in the area under our red oak. These pretty spring ephemerals are native and should thrive in this area. This area under the tree has been lawn, but our plan is to work towards this to be an area to shrink the lawn and be friendlier to caterpillars. Leaves that we left last fall under sticks never blew away. Spring ephemerals, leaf litter, and perhaps a large rock or tree branch will provide better pupation sites than lawn would.

We have joined the Less Lawn More Life challenge and the week two challenge was to choose a site for the challenge. We chose an area between where we planted the river birch and witch hazel and the driveway.  This site is in a direct line of sight from our three-season room seen in the photo above and will be a focus area for the challenge as we move forward with other plantings and locations. We have a number of seedlings to plant, and we are approaching the last frost date. Our next post will discuss planning and planting. 

Stopping the Spread?

 

In an earlier post, I suggested that we might plant the three spicebush, Lindera benzoin, seedlings or starts in the south knotweed expanse, near the new river birch. Instead we chose to put them in the area between the woods and our back yard native garden and lawn to the west of our house. This area has been infiltrated by the knotweed, but apparently fairly recently without totally taking it over. 

It is a wet area that should be a good location for the spicebush. Earlier this week, my wife dug out a number of knotweed shoots that had popped up, and on Wednesday we planted the three seedlings. The mature spicebush are thought to be fairly unattractive to deer, but since they are so small we built small cages for them from the end of a roll of coated wire fencing. We planted them about six feet apart in a wide "V" shape. This area already has a number of prolific ostrich ferns, Matteucci struthiopteris.

We are hoping that the spicebush grow successfully and quickly in order to combine with the ferns to counter the return of the knotweed. Both the spicebush and the ferns prefer the kind of partly shady and wet environment found in this location. The spicebush is a pretty multi-season shrub with flowers in the spring, vibrant yellow fall leaves, and red berries (or drupes) on the female plants if a male plant is nearby to pollinate. We won't know for a while if we have both male and female plants, but we can always plant additional ones if these three are only one sex. 

In addition to the berries being attractive to birds, Lindera benzoin is the host plant to the spicebush swallowtail butterfly, Papilio troilus. So, while not a keystone plant, the spicebush is a specialist host plant. Diving into iNaturalist, Papilio troilus have been observed nearby, so if these young spicebush thrive, we will be helping these butterflies too. Here is an interesting video about Specialist Host Plants and the bees, butterflies, and moths that need them. 

For this year, our biggest task is not to focus on specialist pollinators, but to revegetate towards managing the knotweed expanse at the southern end of our property. This tray with our order arrived via Fed Ex yesterday from Pollen Nation with 25 plugs. The tray has ten mountain mint, five common sneezeweed, five cutleaf coneflower, and five New England aster. Some of these are keystone plants, and developing a plan or design concept incorporating these along with my wife's seedlings and her ordered plants is our next task.

Small Successes and Dealing With our Biggest Obstacle

I signed us up on the Homegrown National Park map a few days ago, and I plan to continue adding new as well as existing native plantings. As I mentioned in my last post, celebrating small successes helps to keep us from being overwhelmed with our ongoing knotweed issue. 

Here is a photo from just a few days ago of the serviceberry, Amelanchier x grandiflora, that we planted in the fall of 2023. We have taken photos of it in full bloom on May third both this year and last. This is in front of our house, in an area of the turf where we have put down cardboard and then covered it with composted wood chips from our township's maintenance yard. We also have a white snowberry, Symphoricarpos albus, that we planted last year leafing out in this area. This is one of several garden areas or beds that we have started this way amongst or on the edge of the turf yard. This one we are referring to as "the shrub garden," but we also plan to include other plantings here.  

Over in the south knotweed expanse, we installed a cage around the newly planted birch which has been leafing out, to protect it from browsing. Sadly, a fair number of young knotweed shoots have emerged as well. The shoots emerging such as the one in the photo can be dug up to be "properly disposed of" after they dry up in the sun. The ones emerging from large clumps from past years are more worrying. 

Yesterday, I came across an article here about trying to eliminate knotweed and instead resolving to manage it. I think that the author of the PennState Extension article is dealing with a larger expanse, but her article makes me think about a couple of issues. One is the site and why the knotweed thrives there. Just past our property line a mini bog is formed from the overflow from our spring house. This feature of the area needs to stay. Mini bogs and vernal pools are precious features. We might start thinking of other plantings that will compete with the knotweed. The portion of the knotweed expanse on our property is in full sun. Whether we eliminate or only "manage" the knotweed, we will need to be very aware of a plan to "revegetate" the site which is a major point of Joan Jubela's article. Outcompeting the knotweed and planting keystone natives will need to combine as goals as we move forward in this area.